I did start with NOOBS (being a noob, after all). I followed the directions at the JMRI page (above (or below, if you go that way)) for installing it on Debian Linux (Raspbian being Debian customized for Pi). That's all well and good, as it's a Java program.
DCC (digital command control) is a system that sends digital pulses through model train tracks to control the trains (and many accessories). My system is made by North Coast Engineering and I have their USB interface module. My speedometer module is made by Bachrus and comes with either a hand held reader unit or a USB interface. Support for both of these is built into JMRI (just select the items you have to activate them), but it has to recognize the hardware interfaces, which generally requires drivers.
David
Miserable old git
Patiently waiting for the asteroid with my name on it.
I did start with NOOBS (being a noob, after all). I followed the directions at the JMRI page (above (or below, if you go that way)) for installing it on Debian Linux (Raspbian being Debian customized for Pi). That's all well and good, as it's a Java program.
DCC (digital command control) is a system that sends digital pulses through model train tracks to control the trains (and many accessories). My system is made by North Coast Engineering and I have their USB interface module. My speedometer module is made by Bachrus and comes with either a hand held reader unit or a USB interface. Support for both of these is built into JMRI (just select the items you have to activate them), but it has to recognize the hardware interfaces, which generally requires drivers.
At first glance it does not appear to install drivers. It looks like they use standard USB driver and use the port as a serial port. With a name of Universal Serial Bus that makes sense. I haven't gone through the install scripts to see if any go on the net and pull in a driver, but they most likely do. I do know there are a lot of devices made that use a UART to change USB to standard RS-232/422 with various pin outs. Most do need some kind of driver because the OS is expecting a hard disk, or Human Interface Device and not a WTF?
P.S. I'm sure your radio uses a UART cable when you program if from the computer.
Moving on. More "parts" arrived, namely the DIY USB Male connectors. Yes I only need one but soldering is involved so I thought it best to have more than one. Shows the "gender bender/ 180 degree adapter in place with the new shorter USB customized cable.
My goal for the day is to place the cylinder wall and test in the backyard, i.e., will the Pi3's built in WIFI signal escape the enclosure or will I need to make adjustments to accommodate an external antenna.
More pictures here: http://usefulramblings.org/?page_id=10321
Well I finally achieved final assembly and was able to test in the backyard. I used a power bank shown in this picture to "go" mobile.
While I admit the video content sux the actual quality of the "broadcast/wifi" video at a max distance of 40 meters is quite good considering the Pi3 is locked in a sealed unit (no I have not done any waterproof testing as of now). Here is a picture of the complete assembly and a "video" produced by the Pi3 camera and caputred on a laptop inside the house. I am using "motion" on Linux to capture and publish the video in a browser page as seen here in the video:
This build of a prototype did point out the need for some design changes but I was most interested in quality of the video produced by this usb camera module and how well the Pi broacast it video data over a long distance. I believe the biggest problem will be heat, especially in the summer months. This might necessitate the addition some type of fan module.
While white paint would help the internal heat build up has no where to go. I just lost a fan on the Qube I built for 2/3 Odroids and the internal temp inside that unit with an ambient room air temp of 79 was around 95 on each of two Odroids. After about 8 months of constant rotation the Fan's lube dried out and combined with dust it was barely turning. But I cleaned it, lubed it and now have a spare 120mm fan should the need arise.
And in the shade under a tree, the combination, along with the wind blowing, should provide some cooling and with an instant read thingy you can monitor it from a short distance away to see if it is sufficient.
While white paint would help the internal heat build up has no where to go. I just lost a fan on the Qube I built for 2/3 Odroids and the internal temp inside that unit with an ambient room air temp of 79 was around 95 on each of two Odroids. After about 8 months of constant rotation the Fan's lube dried out and combined with dust it was barely turning. But I cleaned it, lubed it and now have a spare 120mm fan should the need arise.
As long as it stays waterproof the internal heat has nowhere to go period [except through the case]. Perhaps a heat pipe to outside the case?
And in the shade under a tree, the combination, along with the wind blowing, should provide some cooling and with an instant read thingy you can monitor it from a short distance away to see if it is sufficient.
I currently run a script on one Linux desktop that acquires temps and other vital data from all crunching nodes regardless of types. If an arbitrary temp is exceeded then the same scripts will issue a shutdown command. Unfortunately the Pis generate a fair amount of heat and without running some sort of active cooling coupled with being outside in the summer and very likely in direct sunlight for a couple of hours this could introduce a significant heat problem. I could switch to White PLA/PHA instead of black for the print and that would help also but active cooling (a small fan plugged into the 5 volt header) would be a significant improvement by pulling in outside air and exhausting inside air. And remember that in the summer on a still day the ambient air temp will be in the 90s + and I don't believe the Pi will have a long lifespan without some sort of active cooling. Something to think about.
As long as it stays waterproof the internal heat has nowhere to go period [except through the case]. Perhaps a heat pipe to outside the case?
Your right. Air flow becomes essential and this would do the trick. This will necessitate a design change and more water proofing challenges. I suppose running it for a week in its present configuration in the current temps (mid 80s outside) would give me a more accurate feel for the temps and what might need to be changed going forward.
I did start with NOOBS (being
)
I did start with NOOBS (being a noob, after all). I followed the directions at the JMRI page (above (or below, if you go that way)) for installing it on Debian Linux (Raspbian being Debian customized for Pi). That's all well and good, as it's a Java program.
DCC (digital command control) is a system that sends digital pulses through model train tracks to control the trains (and many accessories). My system is made by North Coast Engineering and I have their USB interface module. My speedometer module is made by Bachrus and comes with either a hand held reader unit or a USB interface. Support for both of these is built into JMRI (just select the items you have to activate them), but it has to recognize the hardware interfaces, which generally requires drivers.
David
Miserable old git
Patiently waiting for the asteroid with my name on it.
David S wrote:I did start
)
Your link was broken, but http://jmri.org/install/Raspbian.shtml is what I found.
At first glance it does not appear to install drivers. It looks like they use standard USB driver and use the port as a serial port. With a name of Universal Serial Bus that makes sense. I haven't gone through the install scripts to see if any go on the net and pull in a driver, but they most likely do. I do know there are a lot of devices made that use a UART to change USB to standard RS-232/422 with various pin outs. Most do need some kind of driver because the OS is expecting a hard disk, or Human Interface Device and not a WTF?
P.S. I'm sure your radio uses a UART cable when you program if from the computer.
Moving on. More "parts"
)
Moving on. More "parts" arrived, namely the DIY USB Male connectors. Yes I only need one but soldering is involved so I thought it best to have more than one. Shows the "gender bender/ 180 degree adapter in place with the new shorter USB customized cable.
My goal for the day is to place the cylinder wall and test in the backyard, i.e., will the Pi3's built in WIFI signal escape the enclosure or will I need to make adjustments to accommodate an external antenna.
More pictures here: http://usefulramblings.org/?page_id=10321
Well I finally achieved final
)
Well I finally achieved final assembly and was able to test in the backyard. I used a power bank shown in this picture to "go" mobile.
While I admit the video content sux the actual quality of the "broadcast/wifi" video at a max distance of 40 meters is quite good considering the Pi3 is locked in a sealed unit (no I have not done any waterproof testing as of now). Here is a picture of the complete assembly and a "video" produced by the Pi3 camera and caputred on a laptop inside the house. I am using "motion" on Linux to capture and publish the video in a browser page as seen here in the video:
Video here: https://youtu.be/rdn0Se0MZOU
This build of a prototype did point out the need for some design changes but I was most interested in quality of the video produced by this usb camera module and how well the Pi broacast it video data over a long distance. I believe the biggest problem will be heat, especially in the summer months. This might necessitate the addition some type of fan module.
More pictures here: http://usefulramblings.org/?page_id=10321
Re heat. White paint.
)
Re heat. White paint.
Gary Charpentier wrote:Re
)
While white paint would help the internal heat build up has no where to go. I just lost a fan on the Qube I built for 2/3 Odroids and the internal temp inside that unit with an ambient room air temp of 79 was around 95 on each of two Odroids. After about 8 months of constant rotation the Fan's lube dried out and combined with dust it was barely turning. But I cleaned it, lubed it and now have a spare 120mm fan should the need arise.
Gary Charpentier wrote:Re
)
And in the shade under a tree, the combination, along with the wind blowing, should provide some cooling and with an instant read thingy you can monitor it from a short distance away to see if it is sufficient.
robl wrote:Gary Charpentier
)
As long as it stays waterproof the internal heat has nowhere to go period [except through the case]. Perhaps a heat pipe to outside the case?
mikey wrote:Gary Charpentier
)
I currently run a script on one Linux desktop that acquires temps and other vital data from all crunching nodes regardless of types. If an arbitrary temp is exceeded then the same scripts will issue a shutdown command. Unfortunately the Pis generate a fair amount of heat and without running some sort of active cooling coupled with being outside in the summer and very likely in direct sunlight for a couple of hours this could introduce a significant heat problem. I could switch to White PLA/PHA instead of black for the print and that would help also but active cooling (a small fan plugged into the 5 volt header) would be a significant improvement by pulling in outside air and exhausting inside air. And remember that in the summer on a still day the ambient air temp will be in the 90s + and I don't believe the Pi will have a long lifespan without some sort of active cooling. Something to think about.
Gary Charpentier wrote: As
)
Your right. Air flow becomes essential and this would do the trick. This will necessitate a design change and more water proofing challenges. I suppose running it for a week in its present configuration in the current temps (mid 80s outside) would give me a more accurate feel for the temps and what might need to be changed going forward.