cpu temp question

mdawson
mdawson
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Topic 196388

My cpu is an Intel 960 at 3.2ghz. It has 4 cores, capable of 2 threads each. In using SIV64 to monitor various aspects of my system, I see a problem with cpu temperature reporting. For instance, each core indicates a temp in excess of 90C, however the master temp for the whole processor indicates a temp in the 70-80C range. Which one is correct or should I say, which one should I pay attention to?

I popped the fan off of the cooling base and sucked out all of the dust. It made a small difference, but not like last time a few months ago where it made a large difference. At that time, I removed the whole thing and reapplied heat compound as well as vacuuming out real good. Last few days have been warm here, so I can understand a little hotter running temp, but since 100C is boiling for water, and my cores indicate that they're frightfully close to that point, I need to do something, but I don't know what. My current cpu fan is aftermarket 4.5" fan. I'd do a double fan, as a bracket was included for that purpose, but I don't have the physical room in my mid-sized case to do that. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Also, I'm leery of running a liquid cooling solution. I don't know if that technology can be trusted yet. Anybody got any comments on that?

BTW - I only crunch Einstein on 6 of my 8 cores. I do Collatz on the GPU and it runs considerably cooler. 50-60C. My side case cover is off.

.clair.
.clair.
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cpu temp question

You have done the basic fix`s for this kind of problem,
can you tell us what make of cpu cooler are you using.

5pot
5pot
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If you don't have a Hyper

If you don't have a Hyper 212, buy one. They're $30 and they work great. Those temps are hot, hot, hot!!! Make sure it has the right bracket though.

Jeroen
Jeroen
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RE: Also, I'm leery of

Quote:
Also, I'm leery of running a liquid cooling solution. I don't know if that technology can be trusted yet. Anybody got any comments on that?

The Corsair H100 is a very decent self contained water cooling unit. The H100 should easily be able to handle the Intel 960 stock or overclocked. This unit is a bit more expensive than the higher end air coolers but costs less than setting up a custom water cooling loop.

mdawson
mdawson
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It's a CoolerMaster. I can't

It's a CoolerMaster. I can't see anything that looks like a simple model number, but the number printed next to the CoolerMaster name is is 12025-20RB-4BP-F1.

mdawson
mdawson
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I wouldn't mind buying this

I wouldn't mind buying this device, regardless of price, but it might be a bit too big. It seems to measure nearly 10" in length and I do have 10"+ from drive case to backplane, but the cpu itself is off center from that measurement and thus a dual fan wouldn't work. The H80 looks like it will fit though. Does Fry's stock it?

MAGIC Quantum Mechanic
MAGIC Quantum M...
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http://www.tigerdirect.com/ap

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=581559&CatId=499

This is the Corsair H80 w/free shipping

And you can look up any other you might like there too.


Cooling,fans,and heatsinks

.clair.
.clair.
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RE: It's a CoolerMaster. I

Quote:
It's a CoolerMaster. I can't see anything that looks like a simple model number, but the number printed next to the CoolerMaster name is is 12025-20RB-4BP-F1.


Can you manualy alter the speed of the fan?
In the bios?
Or is the fan conected with a resistor cable? {if so, take it out}
Another thing i would do is reduce cpu usage to [use 51% cpu`s] in BOINC manager preferences and see what that does.
It will only slow crunching a little bit.
I did search for that number and all i get is the fan or some `oriental` sites.
can you find a site with a photo of your heatsink on, so that we have a better idea what you are using.

Horacio
Horacio
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RE: I popped the fan off

Quote:

I popped the fan off of the cooling base and sucked out all of the dust. It made a small difference, but not like last time a few months ago where it made a large difference. At that time, I removed the whole thing and reapplied heat compound as well as vacuuming out real good.

May be you need to do all that again... If the heat sink is big, it can happen than it gets slightly displaced giving a bad thermal contact with the CPU... also, over time, the thermal compound tends to dry and it loses its ability to help with the heat transference...

mdawson
mdawson
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Clive and everyone, Thanks

Clive and everyone,

Thanks for your responses. I have replaced the unit with the Corsair model that was recommended by someone else.

The old Coolermaster is typical in air flow design. It's sort of a triangular shaped fin structure(bottom to top), with the small end over the cpu, spreading out to the size of the 120mm fan at the top. Once I got it all apart, I could see where my problem is/was. Just removing the fan only gives you access to the top of the radiator. Once I took it off and had it in my hands, I could see where huge amounts of dust were built up in the intake radiator fins. This is a place my vacuum won't go. I could have just vacuumed it and put it back, but since I already had everything apart (had to remove the mobo) and I had already bought the Corsair unit, I opted to put the Corsair in.

WOW! What a huge difference it makes. I remember when I put in the Coolermaster and temps were in the 60-70C range. Right now with the Corsair in and system running for awhile, temps are in the 55-60C range. Big difference! I am ECSTATIC! Clogged radiator fins resulted in individual core temps of 90C+. With this new Corsair, the H80, the fans are easily gotten to so I won't ever have to pop the unit off of the cpu again for the life of this machine. In fact, Corsair supplies dual fans that sit either side of the radiator. The trick is to make sure you have them pointing the same direction. The radiator unit takes the place of the case fan that would normally blow somewhere over the top of the cpu. I wish I had known that since my case fan in that position had died some time ago, so while I was at Fry's, I bought a replacement for that which I now don't need. The radiator and fans stick out just a little too far for me to reinstall the side cover, but I don't mind. More heat escapes when the cover is off since I also have a giant GTX 680 blowing huge amounts of heat as well.

Anyway, I'm a very happy camper. I know my responses to your post go beyond what you were talking about, but this has morphed into a general response to all who replied. Thanks everybody!

The one question that really didn't get answered is why are the core temps quite a bit hotter than the data fed out for cpu temp as a whole? For instance, my core temps right now are 60, 57, 58, 58C and the general temp reading put out and read by the BIOS and other programs is 46C. I would tend to think that the general, or master temp reading (for lack of a better term), should be an average of the individual core temps. I guess they use different polling points to get the temps.

In answer to another question, the Coolermaster was controlled by the BIOS and I had set it to run full blast. Yes, heat compounds do break down over time, but I had just done this less than 6 months ago, so that may or may not have been part of the problem. Certainly the built up dust in the intake was a major factor. I noticed though, that when I took the Coolermaster off, half of the heat compound was on the cpu, the other half was on the heat collection plate of the Coolermaster. Whether this affected heat transfer, I don't know. It's a mute point now.

.clair.
.clair.
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Glad to see you have solved

Glad to see you have solved the problem.
The only thing that realy gets dust out of heatsinks is a blast of compressed air be it from a tin or compressor.
The heat sink goo dose break up during dissasembly and never `looks good` second time around.
I have never been pleased with the way out readings that some temp sensors give,
most are not to far off reality
i have a motherboard sensor that never gets above -13c, yup, and it is not kept in a deep freeze, it is just plain wacco

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